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| Images by Mark Glassner |
Arnold Haas’s Wubet collection takes Ethiopian cotton to a whole new level where design and craftsmanship meet to give stature and relevance to traditional textiles.
Arnold Haas (AH): Hand-spun and hand-woven cotton brings out the best in these materials; simply lovely. The fine cotton used for these garments is the base material for most Ethiopian textiles, whether shawls, pillow covers or table linens.
ME: What is the origin of Netela?
AH: Netela is a scarf like cloth made of cotton very thin and delicate, with the texture of a gauze, worn by all women in Ethiopia.
The Netela has only one/two layers and is quite big.
It’s white with a colorful border (Tibeb) between 1 to 2 inches at each end with two variations, one has only one color and the second can have many colors and patterns.
The Netela can be worn in different ways. For general wear, the Netela covers back and shoulders and the border is folded up over the right shoulder, but for church activities the two layers of the Netela are opened and the border goes over both shoulders. When the border is worn around the face or shoulders, it’s a sign of mourning, but for recreation or resting the border goes over the left shoulder.
ME: Why did you become interested in Netela?
AH: When I saw these beautifully hand woven textiles it came to my mind to design accessories and using my educational background
and long time experience in the fashion business to establish traditional Ethiopian textiles into the International fashion scene,
an endeavour that will be highly profitable for Ethiopia as Ethiopian textiles are hardly known in the fashion world.
The enthusiastic response that I had from the buyers at my first display during Paris Fashion Week at Premiere Classe
(an International trade show for accessories) was a pleasant surprise.
It encouraged me to step up efforts, to the supply of high-quality, hand woven items that will be appreciated by foreign buyers.
Having those objectives in mind and with tangible results achieved in their production, the next obvious step was to secure such markets.
ME: What is your design input for this old technique?
AH: Ethiopian design may never have been as timely.
In an era of increasing globalization in business, communications, marketing and public policy, as we become one world,
it is important to understand and preserve what is unique to our various cultures.
The beautiful textiles of Ethiopia are unique, I would like to see them cherished and also shared with the world.
I have earned a reputation as a „visionary and imaginative designer" who has attained a „high level of professionalism"
and displays a „unique approach" to process of design.
My „creations are full of originality" and are considered „strong, intelligent pieces, which explore design in an innovative and unique manner".
I have been described as ingeniously clever and elegant and have won praise throughout the international design community as incorporating original minimalist forms.
I believe now is the time for designers to pass up mass production and global branding in favor of personal products that represent individual style.
ME:. What can you tell us about the material, the technique, the artisans who make them?
AH: These textiles are woven by hand in handmade looms.
There is an important group of weavers in the Gamo Highland of Ethiopia among the Doko people.
Weaving is a traditional male job regarded very highly.
Weaving in Ethiopia is an art, which was practiced since ancient times and perfected as far back as the middle Ages.
It has changed very little since then, and is highly skilled, compared to all other crafts in the country.
The weavers called “Shamanes” are highly skilled and incredible talented.
During my stay in Ethiopia from 2003 – 2008 at that point of time W/ro Sara from MUYA decided to create a center were the old,
traditional ways of weaving can be practiced, but at the same time, the environment in which these talented people will be working are very much improved as well as quality and number of products can be increased. New products regularly introduced but at the same time keeping the traditional Ethiopian design alive, to the benefit of all concerned.
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http://handeyeblog.com/content/very-wubet
http://handeyeblog.com/content/very-wubet
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| Weaver Shamane at work. Image by AH |
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| Gomo Gofo Region, Image AH |
Really excited to come across this post. I can't wait to read more about SURevolution!
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